Range Rover L322 pre-purchase inspection checklist

A Range Rover L322 can be a bargain or a money pit, and the difference is usually visible to anyone who knows where to look. This checklist covers the walk-around, the test drive, the engine-specific checks and the paperwork, so you can spot a neglected car before you buy it. Print it or keep it on your phone when you go to view one. For the wider question of which model and engine to choose, see the buying guide and best L322 to buy.

QUICK ANSWER

The four things that decide an L322 purchase are air suspension, gearbox, service history and rust. Cycle the suspension fully, feel for clean gear shifts, demand a full history, and check the rear sills and arches. A car that fails any of these needs a hard look or a lower price.

Walk-around checks

Stance: the car should sit level on all four corners. A low corner points at an air spring. See air suspension faults.
Rust at the rear: check the rear sills, arches and tailgate behind the plastic trim. Rust above the plastic means worse below. This is the most important body check.
Boot floor and roof seams: look for water ingress, especially on Westminster cars where roof seams can leak into the boot.
Tyres: uneven wear can point at suspension or alignment issues. All four should match for the air system to calibrate correctly.
Panel gaps and paint: mismatched panels or fresh paint in one area can hide past accident damage.

On the test drive

Cycle the suspension: at standstill, raise the car to its highest setting and lower it fully. All four corners should move smoothly with no warning lights or compressor strain.
Cold gearbox shifts: drive it from cold. Harsh, slow or jerky shifts when cold are a warning. See gearbox problems.
Shudder under load: feel for any chatter or vibration when pulling. This can mean a gearbox close to failure.
Warning lights: note any lights that stay on, and check the cluster for missing pixels or dead gauges. See instrument cluster faults.
Steering and bushes: a rattle over bumps felt through the wheel can mean worn front ball joints or bushes.
Brakes: the L322 is heavy on pads and discs, so check for recent replacement or budget for it.

Engine-specific checks

What to listen for depends on which engine the car has. See the engines overview for the full detail.

Engine	What to check
4.4 V8 BMW (M62)	Timing chains, water pump, gearbox cooler O-ring seals causing coolant loss.
3.0 Td6 (M57)	Whining turbos, injector misfires. Generally reliable but modest power.
3.6 TDV8	Be wary of "runs but knocking". Turbo actuator issues. Buy only with full history.
4.2 Supercharged	Rattle at idle from the supercharger, exhaust and catalytic converter wear.
5.0 V8 (AJ133)	Timing chain history on early examples. Check service record.
4.4 TDV8	Coolant pipe condition, general history. The pick of the later diesels.

Paperwork checks

Full service history: the single most important item. Look for gearbox fluid changes and suspension work despite the sealed-for-life label.
Recall and TSB work: confirm outstanding items have been done. See recalls and TSBs.
VIN check: match the VIN on the car to the documents and decode it to confirm spec. See the VIN decoder.
Number of owners: a long ownership with consistent servicing is a good sign.
Receipts for big jobs: proof of suspension, gearbox or cooling work already done is worth real money.

In short: buy on history, not on price. A sorted car with receipts for the expensive jobs is worth more than a cheaper car with an unknown past, because those jobs cost more than the price gap.

When to walk away

Some findings are not deal-breakers if the price reflects them, but a few should make you pause unless you know exactly what you are taking on.

Heavy rust in the rear sills and arches, which is expensive to put right properly.
A gearbox that shudders under load or shifts badly warm, with no history of fluid changes.
A 3.6 TDV8 that knocks, or any engine with no history at high mileage.
Multiple repeated electrical or suspension repairs in the history, which can point to an unsolved underlying fault.
No service history at all on a high-mileage car.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most important thing to check on an L322?
Service history, then the air suspension and gearbox. A full history with the expensive jobs done is worth more than a low price, because those jobs cost more than the price difference.

Should I get a professional inspection?
On a car of this complexity, a pre-purchase inspection by someone who knows the L322 is cheap insurance. It can find faults that are not obvious on a short test drive.

Is rust a deal-breaker?
Light cosmetic rust may be acceptable at the right price, but heavy rust in the rear sills and arches is expensive to fix properly and should be reflected in what you pay, if you proceed at all.

Which L322 should I aim for?
Most buyers settle on a well kept 2007 to 2009 car. See best L322 to buy for the year and engine reasoning.